Date: October 24th 2008

 

Westprint Friday Five October 24, 2008

Included this week are:

·        The Search for Milner’s Grave (part 3)

·        Cape York

·        HMAS Sydney 

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Friday Five 24/10/08

1. Workabout Australia. Job Network. A guide for people working their way around Aust. Types of jobs and when available.  208 pp. Old edition, most contacts still relevant. Normally $28.00 including post. Four copies left, $14.00 including post. 

2. Aboriginal Languages. This pocked size book reveals the diversity and strength of the Aboriginal languages of Central Australia. It contains information indispensable to visitors to the area as well as anyone working with Aboriginal people. It includes maps showing the main languages and how they relate to each other; a list of communities and their locations, commonly used alternative community names, a guide to pronunciation and the approximate number of speakers. Normally $18.00 including post, four copies available at @11.00 including post. 

3. Pemulwuy. Eric Willmont. Pemulwuy, the Rainbow Warrior, led his people in the grim struggle against the British invaders from 1788 until his death in 1802. At the time the British not only tried to destroy him and his people, but also attempted to obliterate evidence of his very existence. $30.00 including post one copy only. 

4. Across the Cape – Video. Mike & Margie Leyland take us on a journey from Cardwell in far north Queensland to Karumba, winding their way across the bottom of Cape York. Visit the lava tubes and limestone caves, go barramundi fishing in hidden gorges, and much more. Narrated in the familiar Leyland style, this adventure includes many camping and travel tips. Across the Cape follows a meandering route from Cardwell to Karumba via lava tubes, caves, natural hot springs and Aboriginal art sites. Normally $42.95 including post. Four copies available at $36.00 including post. 

5. Fishing & Fourwheeling- Video. This video follows a group of adventurous campers around Cape York looking for fishing spots and 4WD'ing the old telegraph track, Gunshot Creek and Elliot Falls. Two copies $36.00 including post.

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Friday Forum

Jo’s forum comments in green.  

The Search for John Milner’s Grave

By John Deckert. Part 3.

What do we look for?
We know that the track crossed the creek at a time when at least some of the waterholes must have been holding water. Both Milner’s party and the Overland Telegraph Line construction party needed water. There are two deep waterholes east of the highway. One is near the site where the OTL camp was and another about six kilometres downstream (in a direct line). According to Ted Martin, the Department of Primary Industry officer in Tennant Creek, this eastern downstream waterhole is the best waterhole on the east side of the highway. This may also be evidenced by an old set of cattle yards nearby and the fact that the only water in any waterhole when we were there was a small puddle in the deepest part of this waterhole. It seems reasonable to assume that this waterhole was the best waterhole east of the second tributary flowing into Attack Creek from the north.
We also know that Stuart crossed Attack Creek and it is reported that Milner followed Stuart’s track closely so we can assume that Milner crossed in the same location, which, together with the early traffic from the OTL surveyors and crews would have left a clear track. After the OTL was built the track would probably have had less traffic because a service track developed along the line approximately five kilometres west. Therefore we can assume that when the OTL map was drawn a track would have been clearly visible and no other detail would have been necessary. After walking the length of Attack Creek from the second tributary to the cattle yard waterhole it is apparent that the best crossing is on the eastern end of that waterhole. It would certainly be possible to cross in several other places but this crossing, when travelling in a north-westerly direction, gives access to another important feature.
On the north side of Attack Creek, about 300 metres west of the crossing, is the most suitable campsite on the creek, my opinion is that it is the only really good campsite. Certainly it is one that would encourage Stuart to write in his diary “that he was returning to his old campsite on Attack Creek”. Numerous trees give good shade over much of this flat, heavily grassed area of perhaps one hectare. It is also apparent from the small amount of rubbish found that this area has been used as a campsite for many years. It is my opinion that this is the site where both Stuart and Milner would have camped. There is no other site in the search area that is even 10% as good as this site.
Is there a suitable Tree?
There are three trees that could be called ‘Big Trees’. However, there is only one tree that can be regarded as the biggest tree along the creek and it also appears to be the oldest as can be seen from the number of branches that have been shed during its lifetime. There are two other contributing factors that point to this tree being the site for Milner’s grave. The first is a piece of wire that is very deeply imbedded in what was once a fork in the tree. A report says that a piece of tin pricked with Milner’s details had been removed but was the wire removed – if it had been attached by wire. The second contributing factor is that on the eastern side of the tree in an area approximately eight metres by five metres there are at least 30 visible stones. This is only important when it is realised that the soil at this particular camping area has a fine brown flood-plain clay base with almost no visible stones over the entire area. I believe this grouping of stones is particularly important in an area where few stones are visible elsewhere. Graves often face east, are on the eastern side of a hill or tree and are often marked with stones.
Much of this evidence is circumstantial but this particular spot is the only place where all of these factors exist; the best crossing, the best waterhole, the best campsite by far (almost the only campsite), the biggest tree, rocks scattered by cattle but still closely grouped in an area generally devoid of rocks and a very old wire deeply imbedded in the tree. I am keen to do further work at this site sometime in the future and do more research in Stuart’s and Winnecke’s journals to help confirm my theory. However, as no other place along Attack Creek comes close to matching all of the evidence found at this site, (mostly circumstantial), I believe we can conclude that this is where John Milner is buried.

I would like to acknowledge the keen interest of Greg Campbell, Managing Director of S Kidman & Co. Permission to camp on the property during our search for John Milner's grave was greatly appreciated.

4WD Victoria e-news/Desert Parks Bulletin/Basin Bullet

·        The latest edition e-News from 4WD Victoria is now available.  http://www.fwdvictoria.org.au

·        The September Basin Bullet is now on our website.

The latest Desert Parks Bulletin is now on our website.

Cape York information 

·        We travelled The Savannah Way Roper Bar to Burketown from 7 to 10 Sept 2008 with an off-road camper trailer in tow. We did see about three or so caravans on that road as well as one that had been abandoned with what was understood to be suspension failure. There was also one that set out from Roper Bar for Borroloola that got to Tomato Island camp then turned around and went back to Roper Bar.

The road surface is gravel/sand/dust and was corrugated in parts.

It is impossible to predict conditions for any outback gravel road one month in advance let alone twelve months. Weather, traffic volumes, grader maintenance and the driver's speed all play a part in the road conditions at the time of travel. If you were to consider taking a caravan on that road it would need to have a purpose-built heavy duty off-road suspension and even this may not be enough to avoid the damage to internal fittings caused by the vibration set up by the corrugated road surface. -Lin and Dave. 

·        We, the Sydney Land Rover Owners Club, led by myself including 6 other vehicles completed this area last June 08 (pics can be viewed at the attached link http://travel.webshots.com/album/564109161AknPiM ) and yes a good time to go although give July some thought as QLD school holidays early July. Average days around 28c with little or no rain. Plenty of mozzies at Karumba at night just on sundown in particular but almost non existent elsewhere on the trip. Little traffic, the later you go the more traffic you encounter as it gets drier at river crossings (if you do the difficult tracks as we did, with great challenging water crossings throughout the Cape).
A couple of vehicles drove this section of the Burke Development road on our way home after the trip to the Cape. The road is in good condition for vans with ample camping en-route to Normanton. Chillagoe good camping in Caravan Park, all towns along road having facilities for vans/camping. Good spot at Einasleigh at gorge on the river for a few vehicles (pub close buy with meals).
Dixie Rd from Dunbar well graded but caution needed with vans. Track via King Junction has good camping at river crossing on Palmer River to Fairview exit.
Road to Kimba to Fairview not advisable with vans especially if wet season was heavy. Traffic almost non existent on these sections, we encountered four cars over 1200km's off road.  
No fuel from Normanton/Karumba to Musgrave unless you travel via Kowanyama or Pormpuraaw (old Edward River Community). Overnight stops in these Aboriginal communities expensive. Caravan travel through Koyanyama not advisable through Mitchell/Alice NP, many water crossings, this year very high check with police at these communities first (reply will be negative though).
No good beach access points for vans except north of Weipa at Mapoon (not done this trip) and at Vrilya Point turn off 26km south of Jardine River (not sign posted though), others not known if any. Bryce

·        In response to the request below, we travelled Cape York same time last year and absolutely no problems towing.  We towed Kimberley Kampers and while the corrugations everywhere were interesting, if you do it sensibly then you'll have a great trip.

Road into Vrilya? Point while narrow is fine and fishing should be good.  East coast is windy but that is typical up there during the dry.  Go to Weipa for fishing also.  If there is a ship in try for Queenies near the wharf area, awesome. Rob

Quobba Station and HMAS Sydney.

·        Jo, as promised here is a story I uncovered during our recent rambles down the WA coast.

With its hill-top, slightly over-done memorial Geraldton WA has established itself as “ground zero” for the commemoration of the loss of HMAS Sydney and all hands in November 1941.  But the loss of the Sydney happened far to the north-west of Geraldton.  Relics and historic sites are easy to find. Start in Carnarvon at the very good free museum near the jetty.  Here you’ll find the lifeboat in which the German crew from the raider Kormoran came ashore after they scuttled their ship. Apart from a rusted-out keel it’s in remarkably good condition and worth a look.  Head north from Carnarvon about 60 km on a good gravel coast road and you’ll come to Quobba Station.  This is a wild, rugged coast with blowholes, rogue waves and a simple stone memorial to HMAS Sydney not far from the homestead.  You can stay at the homestead in very spectacular surroundings.  It’s also near the site where the Kormoran crew landed.  They climbed out of their lifeboat on Quobba at Red Bluff (another 80 km north). Quobba Station owners have set up safari tents at this remote outpost.  When the Kormoran crew landed they threw their handguns overboard and one of these was recovered recently and is now on display at the Geraldton museum. With a little sleuthing we found these relics and sites with ease.  It’s a pity that the locals around here have not made more of their links with HMAS Sydney, especially since the shipwreck was recently discovered. Roger  

Steering Problem – Update 

·         Just a note regarding a steering problem I had some time ago, the problem is now fixed, I got ARB to put some caster bushes in the front of the 80 series and she is all good.  Eric

Nature information – ants and caterpillars

·        I think the "brown paper parcels" Maureen refers to are the home of the "Itchy Grub" or processionary caterpillar, ochrogaster lunifer.

These hairy stinging caterpillars are grey with a brown head and are famous for walking in processions. Their many hairs (and those on the adult moths called Bag Shelter moths) can cause quite severe skin rash in sensitive people. The rash can last for months and can become infected. Not only do humans suffer from irritation from the hairs, the stinging hairs have also been said to possibly cause abortions in horses but probably this has not been proved yet.

On my recent trip to the Simpson Desert out of interest I opened up one of the nests and there were ten hairy caterpillars inside. When disturbed, the caterpillars curled up into a tight hairy ball exposing plenty of stinging hairs to a likely predator.

Some of the caterpillar nests are found at the base of a tree, while other nests are high up on the trunks and branches. Perhaps the base dwellers and the high dwellers are a slightly different species.

The caterpillars normally feed at night to escape their bird predators, and feed on a variety of Australian native trees and shrubs. When leaving the nest they march out head to tail leaving a fine thread of silk as they go which is a great way for them to find home again in the dark. They work on the theory that togetherness is a good way to survive. 

They aren't just particular to the Simpson Desert area as specimens can be seen in every mainland state and territory.

Like Maureen I found them very interesting, took plenty of photos of caterpillars and nests, but obviously they need to be observed with care. Peter. Ararat. 

·        Aren’t they fantastic! The ‘bags’ are ant nests (a brilliant adaptation to keeping cool – check out nests no longer occupied to see how ingeniously they do this- they’re honeycombed inside) and the ‘turds’ are mulga ant nests (effective protection from sheet flooding). Welcome to the wonderful world of arid zone ants! We never cease to be fascinated, on our travels, by the diversity and industry of these wonderful creatures. Graeme & Bernie, Dixons Creek 

·        I’m pretty sure that Maureen’s question about “brown paper parcels” in trees relates to nests of processionary caterpillars. A good description of these creatures and their remarkable travelling habits can be found at http://www-staff.it.uts.edu.au/~don/larvae/noto/lunifer.html.

Rob 

Wanted – Book 

·        Does anyone know of a book that shows basic plants? We would like to be able to identify what crops are growing and what the trees and shrubs on the roadsides are? Liz.

Help Wanted – Mirrors

Can anyone tell me where to buy extendable door mirrors similar to the ones in the photos below? Preferably to suit a GQ Nissan Patrol, with a mounting plate that screws directly onto the door skin. I have been looking on and off for the last couple of years and no-one can tell me the manufacturer or reseller for these.  Graeme

 

 

Dave Phoenix 

·        Dave Phoenix is currently walking Burke & Wills’ route across Australia. John and Prue caught up with him near Innamincka and report he is in good health and spirits. More information on Dave’s walk can be found at http://walk.burkeandwills.net.au/blog/

Sandfire to Alice Springs

·        Re Les’s plan for the run from Sandfire to Alice Springs, if he happens to be doing the trip, or for that matter any other FF readers, in December/January, please call in to Kunawarritji (Well 33) for a cup of tea and some Christmas cake. We will be relieving the local community co-ordinator over the Christmas period. The East Pilbara Shire has been grading the road as far as NT border since June and the grader should be close to the border by now.  Margaret and David. 

·        Re Sandfire to Kunnawaritji. Having just completed this section three weeks ago my only comment is that the west end has a short sandy section but no problem, in places there are a few hard to see washouts but if you are alert these are of no concern. Clarrie

Friday Funnies

·        He said ....... "What have you been doing with all the grocery money I gave you?"
She said .... "Turn sideways and look in the mirror!"

·        Ruby, 93, was despondent over the recent death of her husband Jack, so she decided to just kill herself and join him in death. Thinking it would be best to get it
over with quickly she took Jack's old Army pistol and made the decision to shoot herself in the heart since it was so badly broken. Not wanting to miss the vital organ and become a vegetable and a burden to someone, she called her doctor's office to learn her heart's exact location. 'Since you're a woman,' the doctor said, 'your heart is just below your left b r e a s t. Why do you ask?'
She hung up without answering. Later that night, Ruby was admitted to the hospital
with a gunshot wound to her knee.  

From Shaun (For ease of reading I have taken out all quotation marks)

·        A lecturer, explaining stress management, raised a glass of water and asked, how heavy is this glass of water? Answers ranged from 200g to 800g. The lecturer replied, the absolute weight doesn't matter. It depends on how long you try to hold it. If I hold it for a minute, that's not a problem. If I hold it for an hour, I'll have an ache in my arm. If I hold it for a day, you'll have to call an ambulance. In each case it's the same weight, but the longer I hold it, the heavier it becomes. And that's the way it is with stress management. If we carry our burdens all the time, sooner or later, as the burden becomes increasingly heavy, we won't be able to carry on. As with the glass of water, you have to put it down for a while and rest before holding it again.  When we're refreshed, we can carry on with the burden. So, when you go home tonight, put the burden of work/life down. Don't carry it home. You can pick it up tomorrow. Whatever burdens you're carrying now, let them down for a moment if you can. Relax; pick them up later after you've rested. Life is short. Enjoy! 
And then he shared some ways of dealing with the burdens of life: 
1 Accept that some days you're the pigeon, and some days you're the statue 
2 Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. 
3 Always read stuff that will make you look good if you die in the middle of it. 
4 Drive carefully.  It's not only cars that can be recalled by their Maker. 
5 If you can't be kind, at least have the decency to be vague. 
6 If you lend someone $20 and never see that person again, it was probably worth it. 
7 It may be that your sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others. 
8 Never buy a car you can't push. 
9 Never put both feet in your mouth at the same time, because then you won't have a leg to stand on. 
10 Nobody cares if you can't dance well.  Just get up and dance.

11 Since it's the early worm that gets eaten by the bird, sleep late.  

12 The second mouse gets the cheese. 
13 When everything's coming your way, you're in the wrong lane. 

14 Birthdays are good for you.  The more you have, the longer you live. 
15 You may be only one person in the world, but you may also be the world to one person. 
16 Some mistakes are too much fun to only make once. 
17 We could learn a lot from crayons.  Some are sharp, some are pretty and some are dull.  Some have weird names and all are different colors, but they all have to live in the same box.  

18 A truly happy person is one who can enjoy the scenery on a detour. 

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Cheers for now,

Jo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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